40 Days left in The Kingdom of Swaziland

It has finally arrived after just over 3 years living in The Kingdom of Swaziland. To be exact it has been 1,150 days since I put my feet on the ground in Swaziland. I arrived June 24^th, 2014 and will now be departing this wonderful kingdom on September 27^th, 2017. With just about 40 days left in Swaziland I made a list of 40 things that I will miss about Swaziland and Peace Corps. I have been posting them each day with photos on Facebook so be sure to check them out there. (They are in no particular order)

Overlooking this mighty Kingdom of Swaziland

1.     The preschool that I was able to help establish and seeing the smiling faces each day as I passed by. They have been able to graduate over 80 children now for the first time ever.

2.     The size of the avocados here and being able to buy them for less than 50 cents each (USD). Was able to make the best guacamole ever.

3.     Sunsets and sunrises over the landscape each and every day. God’s creation is amazing.

4.     Traditional attire from the men and women along with all the colors that are expressed. The fabric market and making curtains from them was the best.

5.     Boys from BRO (Boys Reaching Out) club and playing soccer, board games and having fun together along with taking them to the annual BRO camp that we started. It was the first BRO camp Swaziland has had back in 2015. There have now been more than 200 boys who have got to experience this camp.

6.     Working with the teachers at my High School and Primary School as friends and creating the bonds in and out of school.

7.     Hiking Sibebe multiple times and getting some time with God alone in His beautiful creation.

8.     Going to church with my family here and hearing the voices and their passion for God. Even though they could last from 3 hours to all night, the passion is amazing.

9.     Being able to buy fresh produce on the streets from the bomake (women) that would last a week all for about 5 USD. This would include potatoes, onions, carrots, tomatoes, apples, oranges, pears, lettuce, spinach, beets and even avocados.

10.   Sawubona (Hello) and Unjani (How are you?) greetings everywhere you go.

11.   Young Heroes staff and the passion everyone has for working with the orphans of Swaziland and building a bright future for all of the kids.

12.   Peace Corps staff, their support, laughter and always being their for you. They are family.

13.   The GLOW girls and their smiles that would fill a room.

14.   Fresh meat on the homestead and braai (BBQ) meat on the weekends. This included pork, chicken, beef, goat and even the occasional warthog or kudu.

15.   Playing cards and casino with my bhuti even though I still never learned how to play the card game casino. I could still beat him at checkers, sometimes.

16.   Volunteer gatherings on holidays or just when we needed some time off. The conversations and stories to share were endless from our time in our communities or just the most recent bus ride we just took across Swaziland.

17.   My friends.

18.   Rainstorms, thunder and lightening moving across the sky. You can see it come from miles away and hear the roar, as it gets closer to you. God is so powerful and just a small demonstration of his power.

19.   The simplicity of life in Swaziland. Being able to just sit under a tree for hours during the day and talk or just watch life go by and observe.

20.   Culture and the festivals including Umhlanga and Marula festival. Culture is what makes us who we are and why we are. It should never be changed but celebrated and loved.

21.   The places and trips with fellow volunteers during holidays or just long weekends. South Africa, Lesotho and Mozambique will be remembered for all those crazy adventures we Americans had.

22.   My family who welcomed me on day one to Swaziland and taught me things such as how to wash my clothes by hand, cooking traditional Swazi food, the SiSwati language and the kindness of Swazis.

23.   My new family who loved, protected and put up with me for two years as well as took me in as their own son.

24.   Make Masuku, the gospel singer who I would hear her singing on the radio blasting when she was not home and then hear her singing in the mornings when she was home.

25.   Pap (traditional Swazi dish) with Chicken dust (BBQ chicken sold from the side of the road) and the awesome Swazi beans. Best meal my parents had here while in Swaziland was Chicken Dust (all for under 2 USD)

26.   Playing soccer with the kids after school on the dirt fields and joining the game with my teachers and Young Heroes after work. Soccer is life and it was nice to see it all around.

27.   Animals and the different wildlife around, even the monkeys who would run across my roof and steal your food. Seeing the Elephants, Rhinos, Lions, Hippos, Zebra and Giraffes roaming free and safe.

28.   Bushfire Festival 2015, 2016 and 2017. One of the top 5 festivals in Africa along with the music at House on Fire and the food and quiet evenings at Malendelas restaurant. It has one of the best settings for watching the sun go down over Swaziland while enjoying a nice cold drink.

29.   The days of staying at backpackers including Sundowners, Legends and Lidwala. Always having taco nights and staying up late talking and telling stories or playing games with travelers and new friends.

30.   Seeing students succeed and build a future for themselves in and out of school. Working with the entrepreneurs and learners to be better and be successful. Especially working with Lindokhulu who is a young woman who has been out of school for 5 years now and returned to finish her Form5 and get accepted into college to be a teacher.

31.   The Swazi Times and Observer headlines. I don’t think you can be a Peace Corps Volunteer without having your picture in the local newspapers for some reason or another.

32.   Entertainment on those long bus rides from it breaking down, them having to pull over and weld a seat back in on the spot, the animals that catch rides, having to run and jump on the bus like a pro without them stopping and trying not to smash your eggs that you just bought at the grocery store.

33.   The time my parents came to Swaziland and we went to Cape Town and then they were able to meet my family here. It was a special moment having them come together and spent time here in Swaziland. Will be something that I will remember for my entire life.

34.   Seeing the smiles on the kid’s faces and the laughter as they run home from school. Every day seeing children around the community and town in their uniforms laughing and playing together on their way or coming home from school.

35.   The music here in Swaziland, the local musicians, and even the house music they play at Solanis (local hangout) in the evenings. That is all the music I will probably be playing and listening to now when I am back in the US. Get ready for some Tigi by Sands.

36.   Those best friends I will never forget here, Baba Siyabonga. You know who you are.

37.   Friendliness, support and help from all Swazis as we would learn what taxi to take to get home, how to order our chicken dust, carrying those large bags of groceries that we thought we could carry to the bus and just spending the last 4 hours talking with us on the side of the road.

38.   The dancing even though I can’t dance I tried sometimes.

39.   The hikes and adventures where Swazis always wonder why we do some of the things we do as Americans. Hiking up a mountain for fun, running through our communities at 5 in the morning or working on a 1500 piece puzzle at our house.

40.   The Kingdom of Swaziland and my family and home for the last 3 years and more.

Just another Swazi sunset

This is only 40 of the things that I will miss and love about Swaziland but there are so many more things that changed my life here. It was and always will be part of who I am now.

Siyabonga Kakhulu and Salani Kahle 

(Thank you very much and stay well)

Homeward Bound

          It is just under 2 weeks now until I will be making my way to Johannesburg for the grueling 24 hours on a plane and some 10 hours in airports before I touch ground in Portland, Oregon for the first time since I left on June 24^th, 2014.  It will be the first time being back in the United States since I left also that 2 ½ years ago give or take a few weeks.  I am not sure what to expect in these upcoming days and it really hasn’t begun to sink in that I will be traveling home to see friends and family for the first time in a long time.  I have been trying to reflect on how it will be like, how I will feel or act when I am home and how have I changed in my time here in Swaziland and the Peace Corps.  Some of me is nervous for how I will survive, excited to be home with friends and family and all the good food and drinks, how will my stomach survive that change, excited to be able to share Swaziland with everyone, but nervous if they really care and how long I can actually hold their attention before they get bored or sick of me talking about Swaziland.  I know all these things are real life and will happen but I am thankful and grateful for the support of my friends and family in the United States and my ones here in Swaziland.

         Some things I am most looking forward to when getting home is having Mexican food waiting for me at the airport, not that Chipotle want to be Mexican food, but the authentic stuff you find on the West Coast and in Oregon.  I can’t wait to have a beer that does not taste like Keystone or Coors light, but something with that dark rich taste of chocolate and pumpkin spices.  Being able to get in a car and run to the grocery store, not worrying about how you will carry everything home and having the AC going.  Since it will be winter that won’t be happening, so being able to turn the heater on or have a warm fire going while home.  The smell of Thanksgiving food and Christmas food and pumpkin pies and all those holiday smells including the real Christmas tree.  I can’t forget the pumpkin spice lattes and having actual coffee at home or on the run in a cup that is not Styrofoam and spilling all over you.  Being able to use my phone and not worry about how much data I will be slaying by using Instagram and the ability to download and watch all the shows and movies I have missed since being here.  I will be bringing them back to Swaziland so don’t worry about that.  Most of all it will be being home with my family and seeing friends and being together for a full 5-weeks.  It is time for me to recharge and prepare for the last 9 months I will be spending in Swaziland.  Or that is how the plan goes for now.  We all know my 2-years has now turned into 3-years so who knows where the 3-year plan will go.

            What am I nervous about?  One is the fact of being back on the other side of the road and all the traffic that will be happening.  I have gotten used to the slower pace of life here and not having to drive anywhere, or being allowed for that matter in Swaziland to drive.  Good thing I have a younger brother who can drive me everywhere, even pick me up when we are out with friends.  I am nervous about the richness of the food and drinks and my stomach adjusting to that cause I know it will not like it at first.  I am nervous about my patience with people when they complain about something so “First World Problem” and not wanting to jump down their throat.  Life has gone by since I have been here and people have moved, gotten married, had children and started new jobs.  Will it be the same and coming home and expecting everyone to be the same and to pick up where we left off?  We all have our own lives and the World continues to turn no matter what we are off doing.  It will be exciting to hear about all the change but will be difficult at first adjusting and getting back into the life back home.

         Some people ask how has the Peace Corps changed you and it has been difficult for me to answer that sometimes.  I want to say it hasn’t changed me much but I know it has and it can be easier for others to see that but more difficult for the individual to notice their change.  They can be little changes in your mannerism from the way you stand or sit to just little things you say that have picked up from Swaziland.  I do know “Yebo” and “Eish” will be a common phrase my friends will hear when I am home and will give my strange looks.  It can also be the bigger things from my patience to how I can get more frustrated now with the actions and the things other people choose to talk about.  Are you really upset because they put whole milk in your latte instead of non-fat milk?  I can’t tell you all the ways I have changed and how the Peace Corps changes your outlook on life but I can tell you it has been one of the best decisions I have ever made to join the Peace Corps and have been extremely lucky to be blessed with living in a Country like Swaziland.

         My time home will be filled with traveling to Seattle to see a best friend then flying to Colorado to ski and be reunited with my best friend from the Peace Corps to back to Seattle then down to Portland for some Peace Corps events and talks then home for the last few weeks for Christmas.  It makes me tired just reading that sentence.  The time will be great and packed full of adventure and activities but will go by too fast in the end.  It is important to make time to rest and just enjoy the time home and not look forward too much to coming back to Swaziland.  Our time with friends and family must not be taken for granted and we need to enjoy all the time we have with them from the talks that go late into the evening over drinks to speeding down the slopes for the first time in a long time.  I have a life here in Swaziland, I have a life there in the United States, and I am looking forward to sharing all our lives together and hopefully one day bringing them both together.

 

One of the first sunsets in Swaziland

Our first taste of Swaziland

Things I miss from the United States                  Things I will miss from Swaziland

1. Friends and Family                                                1. Friends and new Family

2. Coffee and Beer                                                       2. Chicken Dust and school beans

3. Mexican Food                                                          3. Buying a meal for $1.50

4. Driving in a Car                                                     4. Not worrying about a car

5. Snow and Skiing                                                    5. All the soccer played

6. Football Games                                                      6. The simplicity of life

7. Fast Internet and data                                        7. Not worrying about my phone

8. Snow Storms                                                          8. Thunderstorms

The Last 500 Days

Sawubona “Greetings” from Swaziland.  I hope all is well back state side and just wanted to give all my wonderful friends and family and update on how the last 500 days have gone in one email.  That is going to be hard to do but I wanted to highlight some of the things I have been able to experiences, places I have seen, projects I am doing and just try and capture a little bit of what it is like to be serving as a US Peace Corps volunteer here in the small Kingdom of Swaziland.

One of the first projects I started when I arrived was starting a boys club, BRO (Boys Reaching Out) and a girls club, GLOW (Girls Leading Our World) at the high school.  We would meet about every 2 weeks during school terms at the end of the day.  The main focus of these clubs is to educate the young men and women here in Swaziland about HIV/AIDS and how to make a difference and avoid the virus.  In order to do that we have to address other issues surround the culture here and some of that is gender equality, women empowerment, fatherhood, sexual and reproductive health, self-esteem and building a future.  My boys club has around 12 boys who attend regularly and the girls club is upwards of 25 girls who attend.  I have been able to build a relationship with many of the members in both clubs and have been able to see an improvement in many of there lives in the short year and a half I have been here already.  Some of the things we do are games, dramas, play sports, arts and various crafts, music and movies and lessons teaching various life skills.  Each year there is a camp for BRO and GLOW where the clubs around Swaziland bring 2 to 3 members plus their local Swazi counterpart to a weeklong camp.  At the camp the kids get to interact with other kids from around Swaziland and discuss some of these issues more in-depth, have guest speakers, play sports and activities with each other and enjoy a camp like environment.  Not to mention many of them it is there first time leaving their communities, seeing the larger cities, riding in a bus, and getting all the food they could want, plus showers.  As Peace Corps volunteers we organize this camp each year for all the clubs to come together and it is one of the highlights of our service seeing the kids grow and learn together.

Another project I began was to develop libraries at both the primary and high school in my community.  The primary school has around 350 students from grade 1 up to grade 7.  The high school has just over 200 students from Form 1 up to From 5, ranging in ages from 14 years old to 24 years old.  The school systems are all managed under the ministry of education here in Swaziland allowing students to attend school for free with fees being paid by the government up to grade 7.  A fund has been set up to allow OVC (Orphaned and Vulnerable Children) to attend high school and the government will pay those children’s school fees for them at a set rate.  The high school I work at is comprised of over 90% of the students are OVC, meaning they have lost 1 or both parents.  Most have died from the HIV/AIDS epidemic that hit Swaziland hard leaving 33% of the population living with HIV and 100% of the 1.2 million people living in Swaziland affected in some way or another by HIV/AIDS.  The library projects will allow the kids access to 1000s of new books in the schools enabling them with a greater future.  It will allow students to escape this world and get lost in a good book and discover the joy and culture of reading.  In Swaziland, English is a pass/fail subject and kids need to pass English with a good proficiency if they even want to consider furthering their education here in Swaziland.  All high schools are English mediums but in the rural schools the students lack motivation and the drive to pursue their studies.  They continue to see their fellow peers and community members drop out of school, get in trouble, make poor choices, and they believe this is their only option as well.  The libraries at the schools will give students a place to go where it is safe and help give them a brighter future.  As Peace Corps volunteers we have a program we organize every year called Books for Africa/Swaziland where we are able to provide 1000 new books to 30 school libraries each year.  We also provide training for the teachers and librarians of these new libraries and continue to monitor and help sustain these school libraries long after we depart.  Through grants, donations, community contributions and volunteer work one library at the primary school is coming to completion and a library at the high school is waiting on a grant approval through the US Embassy here in Swaziland.  It is very exciting to see the teachers and students get involved in this project and the joy on their faces when they open a new book.

One of my last big projects here has been the development of a preschool in my community.  There was no preschool when I arrived and many parents expressed the need and importance of a preschool for their children here.  We were able to secure an old building near the schools to renovate and turn into a school.  I was lucky enough to get partnered with a group of individuals from Canada and the United States to help with this project.  They have been a huge support with funding and donating material needed for the school to succeed.  We started with 4 walls and a leaky roof and now are able to provide schooling for over 40 students.  It has been a huge project and one I am very proud of here for my community.  Some work we have done is put a new roof on, build a 3 stall latrine, provide tables and chairs for the students, school supplies and toys, new glass in the windows, fresh paint and artwork on the school, and new fencing.  The parents and community have come together to help with the labor and making this school function.  I have also been working with Megan’s preschool that she currently works at in Vancouver, WA doing cultural exchange with their students and they have also been able to provide financial support for further renovations and needs for the school.  We are still working on getting a water tank and rain gutters for rain water harvesting, building a kitchen so the children can have food at the school, and building a playground for the children.  The school has already made a huge impact in the children and their education.  It will help them be prepared for primary school and help with their English.  We will be having our first graduation ceremony for the school on December 3^rd where 22 students will move on to Grade 1 in January.  It will be an exciting event and the community will come out to celebrate this achievement of the students and community for all their hard work.

All of these projects would also not be possible without the support of friends and family back home.  There are some links you can look at to learn more about these projects and support them financially if able.  Other ways you can support is just to pray for these projects and their success and share them with other friends and family.  The Kingdom of Swaziland is a beautiful place with people who care and love one another; it is the hidden gem of Africa as many like to call it.

I have also been able to do a little traveling while here and get to enjoy all that Swaziland has to offer during my free time and holidays.  I was able to go to Durban, South Africa for New Years last year and recently was in St. Lucia in South Africa for a week.  I am planning to go to Lesotho for New Years this year with another volunteer and do some hiking and camping.  Another trip in the works is visiting Mozambique and the beaches there.  My girlfriend Megan is going to be here in February for a few weeks then shortly after her visit my family will be arriving in March.  I am looking forward to my last 8 months here and getting to see my projects come to a completion and the success of them, some more beautiful places that Africa has to offer, and being able to share my experience with Megan and my family when they visit.  In Swaziland I went on a game drive at one of the largest game reserves here called Hlalne Royal Game Park and we saw Lions, Elephants, Rhinos, Giraffes, Hippos, Impala, Water Buffalo, Warthogs, pretty much The Lion King.  Have dome some great hikes around Swaziland, attended the Marula Festival, went to Bushfire Festival and been able to visit other volunteers around Swaziland.  In my community I have been to traditional weddings, all night church services, school cultural days with traditional dancing, and helped slaughter chickens, pigs and cows.  It is hard to explain all that I have been able to experience and put into words some of the things but it has been a life changing experience already.  They say the Peace Corps is the toughest job you will ever love and they are correct in so many different ways.  I want to thank you all for the support and prayers during this time and I cannot wait to share this experience with you more through my photos, blogs and stories.

Here are some links to our fundraising efforts and please take some time to read through them and pray for all our work here in Swaziland.

GLOW Camp 2015

https://donate.peacecorps.gov/donate/project/glow-swaziland/

BFA (Books for Africa)

https://donate.peacecorps.gov/donate/project/books-for-africa/

Preschool

https://www.gofundme.com/swazilandpreschool

My Blog

http://peacecorpsswaziland.blogspot.com/

The children at the preschool

Year in Review by Photos

My home away from home for 9 weeks in Swaziland

Christmas morning in Swaziland

The beach front in Durban South Africa, which is on the Indian Ocean about 4 hours south of the Swaziland border into South Africa.  Spent 5 days over New Years in Durban with other Volunteers from South Africa, Botswana, and Swaziland.  Toured the city , hung out on the beach and got some 1^st world amenities for a little bit.

I lived with a family during my 9-weeks of training in a community near Matsapha, which was where we have classes and trainings most days.  The other days we staying in the community and had hands on trainings.  My family was made up of a Bhuti “Brother”, Skoni “Sister-in-law”, my brother’s wife, and Make “Mother”.  Most days during school there was a younger Sisi “sister” who was on the homestead, she was 12 years old.  I lived in a small rondaval hut, which was one room with a small veranda and electricity!

My host family during family appreciation day at the end of our PST.

The current G12 group after swearing in, we are now officially PCVs in Swaziland.  All of us with the Prime Minister of Swaziland, our Country Director for PC Swaziland and the current US Ambassador of Swaziland.  We learned about HIV/AIDS in Swaziland, how to create and sustain projects we will start, experienced traditional cultural dances and dress, went to a game reserve, and learned the local SiSwati language.

Traditional Men Dancing

I currently live with a family on a homestead made up of a Make “Mother”, Babe “Father”, Bhuti “Brother, and Sisi “Sister” where I will work for the next 2 years in my community.  It is a house with 2 rooms which I made one room into a bedroom with a bed, camping shower and my clothes.  The other room has my kitchen area, a desk and my hammock.  It’s the PCV life.

This was the first Briee “BBQ” on the homestead where men from the community came and we butchered a pig that was raised and cooked it up for the day.  We hung out and BBQ, talked and shared food with other members of the community and a near by volunteer came to share the day with us.

This was one of the first gatherings we had a PCV in Swaziland after swearing in and it was around Halloween time.  Great time with great people.  Jeremy Loops is a local South African musician who came to Swaziland, check him out, great music and does all his own tracks, hence “Loops”.

This was the end of Term 3 in December and it was a farewell function celebrating all the Form 3 and Form 5 graduating from school, the accomplishments made and was celebrated with food, dance and skits from all the students.

Traditional Dance from some of the students

We spent Thanksgiving in Mbabane at our Country Directors house where a feast was prepared for us by the staff and G11 volunteers.  Our turn this year to prepare and cook.

Spent the day with by bhuti taking the cattle to the dip tank where all the cattle from the community must go every 2 weeks or once a month depending on the season to be washed of all bugs and dirt.  This is mainly the role of the younger boys in the community to watch the cattle and make sure they don’t get into other peoples homesteads and fields and keep track of their cattle.

Mantenga Falls and swimming in Swaziland to wrap up the New Years Vacation

The Pre-School I am currently working on before we started the renovation of the building in January 2015.

Currently we have 35 students attending the school with 1 teacher.  We are working on building a new latrine, a new roof and putting a fence up around the premises.  This has been one of my main projects and has been very rewarding seeing the progress and growth in the community and with the children.

This is the annual marula festival in Swaziland, which celebrates the traditional drink and fruit of Swaziland.  Swazis from all over collect the fruit and make their own homebrewed marula drink from this fruit and all come together each year to present it to the King of Swaziland and this festival.  It is wrapped up with dancing from the mother’s of Swaziland and presenting the drink to the King.  It is pretty much a large party in Swaziland.

The dance at the marula festival

Spent the night at the Hlalne Royal National Park in Swaziland with some fellow PCVs.  We went on a sunrise game drive and saw lions, rhinos, elephants, giraffes, water buffalo, impala, hippos, and a turtle.

This was our first ever BRO (Boys Reaching Out) Camp that we put on for boys to attend from all over Swaziland.  We had 28 boys attend from 10 different schools all over Swaziland.  We discussed male identity, gender equality, self-expression, SRH (Sexual Reproductive Health), Fatherhood, and HIV/AIDS education and prevention.  We also played soccer, had a talent show, roasted smores, and played lots of other games with the boys.  Check out the video on YouTube soon.  It will be on our Peace Corps Swaziland YouTube Channel.

The group who recently participated in a Grassroots soccer training, which we hope to implement into our schools and community. It is a way to use soccer to reach the youth and educate them about HIV/AIDS.

Me hiking Sibebe Rock near Mbabne, which is one of the largest granite rocks in the world.  It was about an hour and a half to the top and I was able to hike all around the rock and view Swaziland from afar.  The local beer is named after Sibebe so I enjoyed a cold one at the top.

This is one of the most recent projects I have undertaken and we are developing a library at the high school for the students to get excited about reading and the English language.  We have over 1000 books to sort and organize and then implement into the school and English department.

And finally my current PC beard I am working on growing for my last year of service.  Who am I trying to impress, really? Taken at a local reserve near my community I went to stay one night to relax.  Got to sit outside and watch the thunderstorm roll in while it was raining and listen to Phil Collins’ Tarzen theme song.  This is Africa!

       So since I failed at keeping posts up and running each month I though I would do a double header and make this post all about photos.  I tried to choose the best photos I could about some of my Peace Corps Swaziland experience with short captions explaining them all briefly.  Mindful though that photos can never truly capture this experience or Swaziland 100 percent.  Enjoy!  (Also, I am not the best photographer sometimes, it has only been a year and I have almost 5000 pictures already on my computer.)